An Introduction to Bagels

Bagels and Me: Love at First Bite

I’ve loved eating bagels ever since I can remember. Growing up in a Jewish suburb of Metro-Detroit, bagels were widely available and I ate them regularly. At some point in my early teens, the bagel and lox with cream cheese, tomato, and onion became my favorite food. The interplay between the crusty, chewy bagel, the fishy smoked salmon, the rich cream cheese, and the acidity of the tomato and onion harmonized on my taste buds like a Stevie Wonder ballad. It struck me in a way that no food ever had, nor has any since. The bagel and lox remains my favorite food to this day.

Fortunately for me, several bagel shops in my hometown sold the smaller, denser, chewier New York-style bagels that I love. One of them is even called New York Bagel. I didn’t realize the rarity of such bagels until I moved away, first to Madison, Wisconsin and then to San Francisco. I quickly became frustrated with the lack of options available, often relying on just one or two places — if I was lucky — to meet my bagel needs.

Needless to say, when I moved to New York in September 2017, I was ecstatic to move to the bagel lover’s Mecca. I’ve been eating as many bagels as possible, at as many different places as possible since I arrived, and I’m excited to share my experiences (in Brooklyn specifically) over the next few weeks.

I hope the information I offer will help other bagels enthusiasts choose the right bagel shop next time they head out to get a fix.

A Brief History of the Bagel

Legend has it that the bagel was created “to commemorate the victory of Poland’s King Jan Sobieski over the Ottoman Turks in 1683,” according to Forward. That legend, however, is incorrect. The bagel emerged sometime in 16th-century Poland and quickly became extremely popular among European Jews. As those Jews immigrated to America in the late 19th century, many landed in New York City’s Lower East Side and began feverishly producing their favorite boiled snack. By 1900, the Lower East Side had 70 bagel bakeries.

Naturally, bagel makers soon realized their value to society and organized the Bagel Bakers Local 338 to negotiate wages triple that of New York’s median wage at the time. They celebrated their achievement with “a parade of five thousand people [that] marched through the Lower East Side, carrying a loaf of bread 15 feet long and 5 feet wide,” details Meatpaper. Their triumph, however, would not last for long.

In the 1960s, Murray Lender used a machine created by World War II veteran, Daniel Thompson to become the first bakery to ever mass produce and freeze bagels. Shortly thereafter, bagels commercialized and became widely available in every supermarket freezer aisle. This soon led to a departure from the bagel’s small, dense, chewy form to a larger, airier bagel. Naturally, bagel producers also created new flavors that former members of the Local 338 couldn’t imagine in their wildest dreams (or nightmares).

Though many people prefer the modern, larger, sweeter bagels, I remain true to my Jewish roots. I like my bagels small, dense, and chewy, with no sweetness to them whatsoever. With that in mind, I set out to find the most bodacious bagel in Brooklyn.

Methodology

To be consistent in my evaluation of each bagel shop, I order the same thing in each place: a toasted plain bagel with lox, cream cheese, tomato, and onion, and a toasted everything bagel with plain cream cheese. While I know some prefer different toppings like sausage, egg, and cheese or (gasp) butter, I believe a bagel is meant to be consumed always with cream cheese, and with lox as well if you’re treating yourself. Regardless, my major focus is the bagels themselves.

To determine which place is best, I rated each one on the following four criteria using a 10-point scale:

1. 1. Taste: Bagels should be full of flavor without being sweet.
   2. Texture: A good bagel is crusty on the outside, and dense and chewy on the inside.
   3. Value: I’m not made of money, and lox isn’t cheap.
   4. Intangibles: A vast selection of cream cheeses or salads, great coffee, service, or ambience can enhance the bagel experience.

This Week’s Candidates

Sunny’s Bagels

I came across Sunny’s by chance while walking around Fort Greene. It was a weekday afternoon, so the store was quiet when I came in. With a bare bones interior and almost callous customer service, I hoped the bagels would speak for themselves. $9.50 for the plain bagel with lox and the works, plus $2.oo for the everything bagel and cream cheese didn’t break the bank, but it also wasn’t cheap. The plain bagel was nice and chewy with a crunchy crust. They gave me a decent piece of lox, but it wasn’t huge, and they loaded up the bagel with cream cheese (which I happen to like). Sadly, the plain bagel had a sweet aftertaste, something I’m not fond of. The everything bagel was noticeably larger than the plain bagel, and although it had a crunchy crust, it didn’t have the dense interior of the plain bagel. It also tasted extremely garlicky with the same sweet aftertaste of the plain bagel.

All told, it was an alright experience. Nothing special, but definitely a solid spot to go to in the Fort Greene neighborhood.

• Taste: 6.5
• Texture: 7
• Value: 6
• Intangibles: 5
• Final Score: 6

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Knickerbocker Bagel

Opened in September 2017, I only recently discovered Knickerbocker. The shop is pristine, with black floors and walls filled with local art, complemented by metal and wood tables and chairs. It felt very new. The walk from the front door — past the immense counter filled with homemade, hand-whipped cream cheeses and the large refrigerators offering every bottled drink imaginable — got me all hot and bothered for a bagel. The staff went out of their way to accommodate me cheerfully, which I also appreciated. I could hardly get to a booth to tear into the bagels fast enough.

The plain bagel with lox, etc. ran me $8.95 and the everything bagel with cream cheese cost $2.50. This was again, not expensive but not super cheap either. The plain bagel was compact and chewy, and held the average-sized portion of lox properly. It had the crunchy exterior I look for in a bagel, but it was almost overly chewy. By the time I got to the everything bagel, my jaw muscles were getting tired. Fortunately, the everything went easier on the jaw. Though the everything bagel was a little on the salty side, I greatly prefer that to any sweetness, which neither bagel had. Knickerbocker nails the flavor of their hand-rolled, boiled bagels.

Between the nearly perfect flavor and the chewy texture of their bagels, the welcoming staff, and the plentiful selection of complementary items, Knickerbocker makes a serious case for the best bagel in Brooklyn.

• Taste: 10
• Texture: 9
• Value: 7
• Intangibles: 10
• Final Score: 9

BK Bagels

With its unassuming storefront at the busy intersection of Broadway and Dekalb, it’s easy to miss BK Bagels. That doesn’t prevent Brooklynites from flocking in droves every weekend, all prepared to wait in line for their bagel and Brooklyn Roasting Company coffee. I strategically visited on a weekday afternoon (my apparent time for craving bagels) to avoid the crowd. The staff made me feel welcome, and the store was quiet with ample counter seating. The cream cheeses on display and drink selection was small, but high quality.

At $8.75, the plain bagel with lox and whatnot, aptly named The Lox Deluxe at BK Bagels, was slightly cheaper than other places I’ve visited. The everything with cream cheese cost a standard $2.50. At a slightly cheaper price, I was concerned I’d get a slightly smaller portion of lox. On the contrary, I received a healthy serving of lox, cream cheese, tomato, onion, and even some capers. The bagel was the perfect size, and after chewing it a bit, it nearly melted in my mouth. Somehow the bagel managed to be simultaneously chewy and tender, a texture I greatly enjoyed. For flavor, it had the subtle starchy flavor that plain bagels should have without even a hint of sweetness. Texturally, the everything bagel was exactly the same. It fell a bit short on flavor, maybe needing more seasoning, but wasn’t sweet either.

The helpful staff and handful of counter seats made for a wonderful experience, one fitting of the delicious bagels served up at this Bed-Stuy bagel spot.

• Taste: 9
• Texture: 10
• Value: 9
• Intangibles: 8
• Final Score: 9

The Search Continues

After one week of searching, my heart is as full of joy as my stomach is with smoked fish. Brooklyn does not disappoint when it comes to bagels. Though I’ve found a couple amazing places, it’s too early to crown a champion. I’ll continue my noble quest next week.

What’s your favorite bagel place in Brooklyn? Have you had similar experiences at these places? Want to debate the merits of dense and chewy savory bagels versus light, airy, sweet bagels? I’d love to hear from you in the comments section here or on Twitter @austinjruby.